
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Monday, May 26, 2008
Birthstones for Hour of the Month
1 (midnight until 1 am) -- Quartz
2 -- Hematite
3 -- Malachite
4 -- Lapis Lazuli
5 -- Turquoise
6 -- Tourmaline
7 -- Chrysolite (Peridot)
8 -- Amethyst
9 -- Kunzite
10 -- Sapphire
11 -- Garnet
12 (noon until 1 pm or 13:00) -- Diamond
13 -- Zircon
14 -- Emerald
15 -- Beryl
16 -- Topaz
17 -- Ruby
18 -- Opal
19 -- Sardonyx
20 -- Chalcedony
21 -- Jade
22 -- Jasper
23 -- Lode
24 -- Onyx
Friday, May 23, 2008
Beaded Crystal Heart

Use crystals, firepolish beads, pearls, or combinations of beads to make a stunning heart pendant or charm. You can weave a flat heart or make two and join them to make a three-dimensional or puffed heart.
Skill Level - Easy-Intermediate. It's easy if you're comfortable working two threads at once (cross weaving).
Time Required - 15 minutes - 1 hour, depending on complexity of heart.
Beads - I used 4-mm Czech firepolish beads, but Swarovski bicones or round pearls or even seed beads work nicely. Experiment using seed beads at the ends of crystals, both as a design element and to protect your stringing material.
Stringing Material - I used clear nylon fishing line. Colored wire looks cool with very sharp crystals. Powerpro is another good choice for sharp crystals. Nymo will work for pearls and other opaque beads.
You can create a lot of different looks based on this design depending on your choice of beads and stringing material and on whether you choose to use a single heart or combine two hearts. All of my beads are the same color, but it's easy to introduce color as a design element.

The heart shape is made using cross weaving, which is the technique used in my Hugs & Kisses Ring (string) and Autumn Leaves Necklace (wire) tutorials. Cut about 2 feet or half a meter of your stringing material. Thread three beads onto the cord or wire and allow them to slide toward the center of the line. The fourth bead is your crossover bead. One end of the thread passes through the hole of the bead from left to right (or top to bottom) and the other end of the thread goes into the bead from right to left (or bottom to top). If you study the thread path, you will see that you are working the heart on its diagonal, making a series of crosses. Then you pick up the top bead of the heart and work the downward diagonal. When you have completed the heart you can tie a knot and run the thread back through the pattern to hide the ends (or if you are using wire, simply run back through the pattern a ways). You can even make the heart using a single thread if you really prefer it.

The firepolish heart shown in my top photo is what you get if you weave the basic 2-dimensional heart. If you use tight tension, the tops of the heart will puff out a bit and the beads will turn toward each other. A looser tension will result in a flat heart. For a 3-dimensional flat heart, make two hearts, lay one on top of the other, and string them together at the edges. For a puffed heart, make two hearts using a relatively tight tension and then lace the two hearts together with edging beads, as shown in this diagram. If you lace two hearts together to make the puffed heart, you will have a single bead at the 'dip' in the top of the heart. It's easy to run a jump ring or make a loop of seeds beads through this bead so that you can make your heart into a pendant or charm.You could hang a single flat heart from its stringing material in the dip, but the connection will be more secure if you run wire or beads through the two 'dip' beads or the two top beads. For a bracelet or anklet, consider joining the heart to a beaded band using the two beads on each side of the heart. So pretty! Make them in crystal and red and pink and white pearls and crystal with contrasting cord... perfect for Valentine's Day or 'just because'.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Beaded Spiral Rope Chain

This easy stitch results in a flexible rope of beads. The spiral rope looks lovely by itself, but it is also easy to embellish either during the beadweaving or after the rope is complete.
Skill Level - suitable for beginners
Time Required - depends on length of chain
Materials
Beads - In this example, I used size 11 Matsunos, but use any size or shape. The inner core beads must have a hole wide enough for 4 thread/needle passes.
Thread - I used size D Nymo, but I think a lightweight Fireline or PowerPro would be stronger and still flexible. I use size B Nymo when I make a rope with size 15 seed beads.
Needle - A size 10 beading needle works for size 11 beads, but you will want a smaller needle if you use smaller beads.
Thread Nippers - As always, I used my trusty flush cutters.
I like to work with a long length of thread so that I can complete the chain without adding new thread. If your thread is fairly thick, it can be tricky adding new lengths while working. On the other hand, if your thread is thin, the resulting rope may be weak. The thread only passes through the beads in the spiral once!
With these considerations in mind, cut a length of thread (mine was about 5 feet or about 1.5 meters), condition it with beeswax or Threadheaven (optional), and thread your needle. String on 4 core beads (gold) and 3 spiral beads (blue). Allow the beads to slide down to within 6-12" of the end. You will use this thread to attach a clasp or to join it to some other work. Pass the needle through the 4 core beads, entering from the tail end (as in photo, tail is 'down', working end is 'up'). Avoid piercing your thread.

Here's what results from the first thread pass. You will have spiral beads (blue) alongside the core beads (gold).

String on 1 core bead and 3 spiral beads. Let them slide down to your work. Pass the needle up through the last 4 core beads (3 old and 1 new), as shown in the photo, from tail end toward the working end. Don't pass through any spiral beads.

Here's what you get. You simply repeat the previous step over and over (and over and over) until your spiral reaches the desired length. The rows of spiral beads will start to line up with each other, as seen in the next pass/photo.

Add 1 core/3 spiral and pass through the last 4 core beads (1 old, 3 new). Feel free to experiment with types of beads and also the number of beads used for the outer spiral (e.g., use 4 spiral beads instead of 3). You can use 2 or 3 colors of spiral beads instead of just one. Also, try using different sizes of beads for the core and spiral. You can intersperse sections of spiral rope with larger beads or other stitches. More advanced beaders may enjoy working fringe or flowers on the spiral or adding embellishment to a completed spiral. I made a simple necklace with the spiral by adding a large bead at one end of the chain and a loop of beads at the other end.

For beginners, here's an explanation of how to add a bead and loop closure, string an 8-mm bead and a seed bead, pass back into the 8-mm bead, run through the work a bit, backtrack through the 8-mm and seed bead, back through the 8-mm, weave back into work. Stitch from the chain through the 8-mm/seed bead as many times as you can to make the connection as strong as possible. Weave back into the work a ways and cut your thread. At the other end, string on seed beads to make a loop that just barely fits around the 8-mm bead. Weave back into the work, back through the loop, back into the work, through the loop, etc., until no more passes are possible or the work is secure. Cut the thread. Enjoy!
Monday, May 19, 2008
Gold Jewelry Care Tips
Care Tips for All Gold Jewelry
- Don't wear your gold jewelry while bathing or cleaning. Soap won't harm gold, but it will leave a filmy residue that will coat karat gold jewelry, causing it to appear less lustrous and dingy. If you prevent the film from forming, it will be easier to keep your jewelry beautiful and will reduce cleaning time and effort.
- Avoid chlorine! Don't wear gold jewelry in the pool or hot tub or when using chlorine bleach or cleaners. Chlorine reacts with gold, particularly at high temperatures. Exposure to chlorine can permanently damage and discolor your gold jewelry.
- Use a chamois cloth to clean gold jewelry. A chamois cloth is a gentle, safe material for returning the luster to your jewelry.
- Avoid storing or otherwise exposing gold jewelry to hard, abrasive materials. Gold is a very soft metal, easily scratched even by rubbing against other jewelry.
If your gold jewelry has gemstones, consult a jeweler for cleaning recommendations. Gemstones have special care requirements. The stones or settings may be damaged by the cleaning methods listed below.
- Tarnish can be removed with a commercial jewelry cleaner or with soap and water with a few drops of ammonia. Brush the cleaning solution into the gold with a small brush (a toothbrush works well). After you have finished cleaning, simply rinse the gold with lukewarm water and allow it to dry.
- Grease can be removed from gold by dipping it into ordinary rubbing alcohol.
- Ultrasonic cleaners may be appropriate for some gold jewelry. Ask a jeweler to advise you before using this method, since certain pieces can be damaged by this cleaning method.
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Gemstone Treatments & Enhancements
A gemstone treatment or enhancement refers to the method used to alter a gemstone, permanently or temporarily, to improve to improve its durability or appearance. Here is a list of treatment names and symbols used by the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA). A reputable seller will always disclose the method of enhancement, if known. Be aware that failure to identify known enhancement of gemstones is an unfair trade practice. The Federal Trade Commission also requires sellers (including jewelry stores) to disclose whether or not a stone is man-made or synthetic. Many stores engage in a sort of don't-ask-don't-tell scenario, where they buy gems without asking about enhancements. Sometimes gems are purposely misrepresented. Also, sometimes treatments of imported gems or older gems are unknown. Enhancements may affect the value of certain stones, so use this information as a guide when asking questions about gems.
Assembled
ASBL
Assembled items are made of multiple layers of materials or combinations of manufactured and/or natural materials. Examples include opal triplets and mosaics.
Bleached
B
Bleaching is the use of chemical agents to lighten or to remove a gemstone’s color. Be aware that many pearls and mother-of-pearl are placed in sunlight for extended periods of time to lighten their color. This non-chemical form of bleaching still affects the durability of a pearl's nacre. Bleaching is a permanent treatment.
Coated
C
Coating is a surface enhancement applied to improve a gem's appearance, provide color, or contribute other special effects.
Dyed
D
Dyeing is the application of coloring matter into a gemstone to give it a new color, intensify its present color, or improve its color uniformity. Dyes and natural gemstone colors may both be adversely affected by prolonged exposure to sunlight or fluoresent light.
Enhanced
E
The 'enhancement' code indicates that the type of gemstone is routinely enhanced. Many enhancements are difficult or impractical to prove, so a supplier may simply assume that such enhancement has been done to the particular gemstone material being described. If the specific type of enhancement is known, its enhancement symbol will be stated.
Filled
F
Filled gems are characterized by the presence of solidified borax or other colorless substance produced as a by-product of heat enhancement. The results are visible under properly illuminated 10x magnification.
Gamma or Electron Irradiated
G
Gamma and/or electron bombardment may be used to alter a gemstone’s color. Gamma or electron irradiation may be followed by a heating process.
Heated
H
Heat may be used to alter color, clarity, and/or other gem aspects. This is a gemstone treatment that has been used for centuries, possibly dating back to the Roman Empire. The results of heating are permanent under normal conditions. Usually, heating is not detectable. Unheated rubies and sapphires may contain microscopic rutile needles or tiny gas bubbles in pockets of liquid that can be used to determine that these stones have not been heated. If these gems are the finest color, they will command premium prices. Unless explicitly stated otherwise, assume the following gems are heated: rubies, sapphires, tanzanite, citrine, pink topaz, aquamarine, blue zircon, and colorless zircon.
Infilling
I
Infilling is the intentional filling of cavities or fractures with glass, plastic, opticon with hardeners, and/or hardened foreign substances. Infilling is performed to improve durability and/or appearance of a gem and/or add weight.
Imitation
IMIT
Imitation gems are man-made products, fabricated using materials such as glass, ceramics, and/or plastics. Imitation gems resemble the appearance of a natural gemstone, but not duplicate its characteristic properties.
Lasering
L
Lasering is the use of lasers and chemicals to reach and alter inclusions in gemstones, most notable diamonds. Lasering results in a visible trail that can be detected by a trained professional.
Natural
N
Natural stones are gems which are not known to be enhanced.
Oiled or Resin Infused
O
Oiling or resin infusion is the intentional filling of surface-breaking cavities of a colorless oil, wax, natural resin, or unhardened man-made material into fissured transparent/translucent gemstones. Oiling is performed to improve a gem's appearance (e.g., as for emeralds). Although unoiled emeralds can be found, they are unusual and neither more nor less valuable than oiled gems. When rough emerald is mined it is often placed into oil. When emeralds are cut, oil is used as a lubricant.
Irradiated
R
Irradiation refers to the use of neutrons with the combination of any other bombardment and/or heat treatment to alter a gem’s color.
Stabilized or Bonded
S
Bonding or stabilization is use of a colorless bonding agent, such as plastic, with a porous gemstone. The procedure is intended to enhance durability and/or appearance.
Synthetic
SYN
Synthetic gems are man-made materials which have essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as the natural counterpart.
Diffusion
U
Diffusion is the use of chemicals in conjunction with high temperatures to produce color and/or asterism (star-like inclusions). Diffusion is not a generally accepted gemstone treatment, since only a slight layer is actually treated. Therefore, if the surface is chipped or abraded, it cannot be repolished without removing the effect.
Waxed or Oiled
W
Waxing or oiling is the impregnation of a colorless wax, paraffin, and/or oil in porous opaque gemstones to improve their appearance.
