Showing posts with label beading. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beading. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Russian Frost Earrings - Coraling Beading Technique



These lacy earrings look like coral or frost. The branched fringe or coraling beading technique is easy to do and yields stunning results. Once you master the stitch you can use it to make necklaces or to adorn clothing.


Skill Level: Intermediate

Time Required: A few hours - can complete pair of earrings in a weekend

Materials
Size 11 Seed Beads - I used a main color and a contrast color. Smaller beads work well (e.g., 13s or 15s), but larger beads will yield heavy earrings.

Earwires

Bead Tips

Flatnose or Chainnose Pliers

Thread Snips

Beading Needle

Thread - I used size D Nymo. Personally, I find other types of thread too stiff for this technique. Nymo B is great with size 14/15 beads.

Accent Beads - Optional. I used a pair of 4-mm beads for the white earrings and a pair of 8-mm beads for the tutorial.

Start Coraling
Coraling is easy, but it does require that you have practice controlling your thread tension. Also, it uses a large number of beads and takes a bit of time. Feel free to vary the number of beads between branches, the length of the branches, etc. Have fun!



To start, cut at least a meter of your chosen thread. If desired, condition your thread with beeswax or Thread Heaven. If you can, it's better to work with a single long thread than to have to add thread, since adding thread will make it harder to keep the beads under tension. I threaded one seed bead onto the string, let it fall about a third of the way down the string, and tied a knot around it.



Put both ends of the thread through a bead tip. This bead will support the beadwork.



Using the shorter strand, string on 1 seed bead, your accent bead, and 40 main color seed beads (this will be the final length of your earring, so adjust it longer or shorter as desired by adding or subtracting beads in multiples of three).



String on three accent beads. Go back through the last two main color seed beads. Tighten the tension so there are no gaps between the beads. If you are using nymo or any other nylon thread, remember that it stretches over time, so your beadwork needs to be fairly tight. On the other hand, if you are using Power Pro or another fluoropolymer, remember that this thread will not stretch, so you want the tension such that there are no gaps between beads yet loose enough for the beadwork to be fluid.



Add two main color beads and three contrast beads. Pass back through the two main color beads. Congratulations, you have completed your first pair of branches!



Pass back through the next 5 beads, going toward the bead tip. Adjust your tension.



Add 4 main color beads and three contrast color beads. Pass back through the last 2 main color beads. Add two main color beads and three contrast color beads.



Pass back through the two main color beads, the two next 2 main color beads of this branch and then through the next 3 beads toward the bead tip (total of 7 beads you go back through).





From here on, you are just repeating the previous step. Add 4 main color and 3 contrast. Pass back through the last two main color. Add 2 main color and three contrast. Pass back through the 7 main color on the 'branch' and 'stem', going toward the bead tip. You will continue this pattern until you are as near the bead tip as you like (5-6 beads for me).



Thread up through the accent bead and bead tip, go through the bead in the bead tip (reinforcing your thread), tie a knot using the other thread, and pass back through the 'stem' beads. I ran the thread through several branches to secure it and cut the thread. Thread your needle on the other end of the thread and pass it through the seed bead and accent bead so that it is exiting the accent bead. Make the next stem with branches. This thread should be dangling from the base of the accent bead. I added 26 main color beads.



Add three contrast beads and pass back through the last 2 main color beads. Add 2 main color beads and 3 accent beads. Pass back through the last 2 main color beads and the next 5 main color beads on the stem (7 main color beads total). Continue making branches until you are within 5 beads of the accent bead. Pass through the main color beads to come out just below the accent bead.



Make the third stem/branch identical to the second stem/branch. When you are finished, you can knot your thread or work it back through several branches to secure it. Cut the thread. Use pliers to attach the bead tip to the earring finding.



Here's a finished earring. Make a second earring to match the first.
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Mermaid - Peyote or Brick Stitch Amulet Bag Pattern



This tiny mermaid-themed amulet bag measures only 1-1/4"x1-3/4" using Matsunos (it would be even smaller in Delicas). It works up very quickly in tubular peyote stitch and requires few beads. The photo is enlarged so you can see the detail.


Basic Information


Tubular Peyote (could could use Brick stitch and do the pattern on its side or use flat peyote and stitch the sides of the bag)

Finished Size About 1-1/4" x 1-3/4" using Matsuno size 11 seed beads

Colors Shown

Opaque Blue (waves)

Opaque Jade Green (rock)

Opaque Light Green (rock)

Opaque Turquoise (dress, wave swirl, eyes)

Opaque Light Blue (dress)

Opaque Yellow (crown)

Rainbow Translucent Orange (hair)

Rainbow Translucent Ruby (lips)

Pearl Purple (background)

Pearl Peach (flesh)



Comments

I recommend using a very pale background color as opposed to the pearl purple that I used (because it's my daughter's favorite color). I beaded a slightly different version of this pattern, in which the blue border framed one side of the bag and not the other. However, when I drew the pattern up, I felt that a border on both sides would be nice. You could center the mermaid with the crown by moving her up and to the right one row, but then her crown will touch the top border... whatever you prefer. The bag is stitched in tubulur peyote and then folded in half. The bottom of the bag 'zips' for easy stitching. I'll add another photo when I have completed the strap and fringe. Enjoy!
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Saturday, June 28, 2008

Beaded Stars or Mandalas



These beaded stars or mandalas are easy to stitch. Make earrings, as shown, or use them as pendants or small ornaments. You can adapt these instructions to make stars of other sizes or with more/fewer points.





Skill Level -- Suitable for beginners, although previous beading experience is helpful.

Time Required -- 15-30 minutes per star.

Materials
Beading Thread - e.g., Nymo D or B
Needle
3-4 mm Beads
Size 11 Seed Beads
Wire Cutters or Thread Nippers

These instructions will make a 7-point star, but you can easily adapt them to make stars with other numbers of points. The number of beads in your starting row will give you a finished star with the same number of points. You can also work with multiples of this number. For example, I could use 10 smaller beads as a starting row for a 5-point star. For outer rows, which have more seed beads, you could substitute bugle beads. You will still want a seed bead for the point, to protect the thread from cutting, to give sharp points, and as points for adding new rows of beadwork or for attaching your star to jewelry. Have fun and feel free to experiment!


Cut approximately 1 meter or yard of your preferred stringing material. I used white nymo size D, but other threads or fine wire are suitable, too. If you like, wax or condition your thread with Thread Heaven (I left my thread unconditioned). Thread your needle and string on 7 silver size 11 beads. Slide them down to within about 6 inches of the end and run your thread back through the first bead or two, to make a circle. Alternatively, you can tie them into a circle, but if you knot the thread, leave it very loose to make room for more beads. Leave the thread tail - you will weave it into your beadwork later to strengthen it.


String a 3-mm or 4-mm bead (oval crystals work well too). Skip 3 silver beads and run your needle through the 4th silver bead.



Add 1 matte blue bead and run your needle through the next silver bead. Add 1 matte blue bead, run the needle through the next silver bead, etc., until you have completed the circle. (I pushed the 4-mm bead to the side to make it easier to see the beading, but it normally sits in the center of the circle.)


When you reach the last silver bead (added a total of 7 blue beads), run the needle through the silver bead and also up through the next blue bead. You have just completed a 'step-up', which puts you in place to add the next row. You want your thread tension to be loose enough to allow the beads to lie flat. I normally use a very tight tension, so I find I need to periodically loosen up the beadwork while making a star. Add a rainbow blue bead, run the needle through the next matte blue bead, add a rainbow blue bead, run the needle through the next matte blue bead, etc., until you have completed the circle.


As you go through your last matte blue bead, step up through the rainbow blue bead. This time, add 3 silver beads, go through a rainbow blue bead, add 3 silver beads, go through a rainbow blue bead, etc., until the circle is completed. The silver beads should start to form little star points.


When you get to the last rainbow blue bead, pass through it and step up through the next 2 silver beads. (You always want to come out through the point bead - a good thing to keep in mind if you find yourself so excited that you keep making the star bigger and bigger!) Before you go any further, you need to think about the ultimate use for your star. If it is to become an earring, look at your earring finding so that you can see how your star will fit on its loop. For very small earring loops (attachment points), you can string the earring finding onto your needle, just as if it were a bead. Alternatively, you could attach a jump ring onto the star and then attach the jump ring/star to the earring loop. For larger loops, complete the star and then simply open the loop, slip the star in place, and close the loop. For this row, our last, add 5 matte blue beads and pass the needle through the point (second) silver bead. Add 5 matte blue, pass through the 2nd silver beads, etc., until the star is completed. (Note that you always use odd numbers of beads to make points. If you wanted a more rounded shape, as for making a flower, you could use an even number of beads.)


At this point, you could simply tie a knot and trim your threads. My preference is to pass through the outer row (no beads added) a second time to reinforce the stitching and stiffen the star. In fact, I keep stringing through various rows until I either run out of thread or can't stand it any longer, and then I cut the thread. I thread my needle onto the tail thread and run it through a few rows before cutting it, too. I didn't do this for these stars, but if you really want to accentuate the points of the stars, you can skip under the point bead as you go around the star a second time (in other words, pass through all of the beads except the point beads). If you are making earrings, make a second star. Did you know you just successfully used the techniques of peyote (gourd) stitch and netting? You did! Congratulations! If you would like your star to be even more stiff, you can dip it in Future floor polish or a similar acrylate and hang it to dry. This also works well if your beads have the sort of finish that would rub off.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Ladder Technique for Beadwork

Single Needle Method

String the first bead, leaving a 4-inch tail. Add a second bead and pass through the first bead, from botton to top. Pass through the second bead now, from top to bottom. String on a third bead (this is bottom-to-top), and pass back through the second bead (top to bottom). Continue this pattern, making certain thread tension is even so the chain doesn't start to bend or twist.



Double Needle Method

Alternatively, you can use two needles to make a beaded ladder. Some people find the double needle method works up more quickly and results in a ladder with more even thread tension. For this method, enter the first bead from the top with one needle and the bottom with the other needle. Leave a 4-inch tail with both threads. Continue the chain by crossing the threads through a new bead, pull the chain snug, and cross through a new bead.

Saturday, June 7, 2008

How to String Beads


Here's an essential for you. You probably know how to do it, just maybe not that it is called 'stringing'.

Stringing refers to the technique where a needle and thread, stiff cord, or beading wire is used to gather beads onto a strand.

Book Review - Glamous Beaded Jewelry


Glamorous Beaded Jewelry - Bracelets, Necklaces, Earrings, and Rings
by M.T. Ryan
Paperback: 144 pages
Publisher: Creative Arts & Crafts; 1st edition (June 1, 2006)
Language: English
ISBN: 1580112951

Use simple techniques to make stunning upscale necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings from pearls, gemstones, crystals, wire, ribbon, and chains.





Twenty five specific projects are detailed, from start to finish. The designs aren't complicated, though the finished jewelry is top-notch, with attention given to every part of the piece. This is jewelry you'll be proud to wear and add to your collection. The materials are high-end, with pearls, gems, precious metals, and crystals, for real designer treasures.

The book is organized with projects first, followed by an overview of tools, descriptions of materials, details and tips for specific techniques, and a list of resources. The projects are grouped according to the type of jewelry: bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and rings. Each project is accompanied by a large, beautiful color photograph of the finished piece, a detailed materials list including tools, and step-by-step instructions. Each step has written instructions plus a large color photograph.

I think an absolute jewelrymaking novice might be a little daunted by way multiple techniques are used to make each piece of jewelry, but the instructions are clear enough that even a beginner can achieve stunning results. The designs are elegant and sleek. I'd recommend this book for jewelrymakers of all skill levels.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Beaded Crystal Heart



Use crystals, firepolish beads, pearls, or combinations of beads to make a stunning heart pendant or charm. You can weave a flat heart or make two and join them to make a three-dimensional or puffed heart.




Skill Level - Easy-Intermediate. It's easy if you're comfortable working two threads at once (cross weaving).

Time Required - 15 minutes - 1 hour, depending on complexity of heart.

Beads - I used 4-mm Czech firepolish beads, but Swarovski bicones or round pearls or even seed beads work nicely. Experiment using seed beads at the ends of crystals, both as a design element and to protect your stringing material.

Stringing Material - I used clear nylon fishing line. Colored wire looks cool with very sharp crystals. Powerpro is another good choice for sharp crystals. Nymo will work for pearls and other opaque beads.

You can create a lot of different looks based on this design depending on your choice of beads and stringing material and on whether you choose to use a single heart or combine two hearts. All of my beads are the same color, but it's easy to introduce color as a design element.



The heart shape is made using cross weaving, which is the technique used in my Hugs & Kisses Ring (string) and Autumn Leaves Necklace (wire) tutorials. Cut about 2 feet or half a meter of your stringing material. Thread three beads onto the cord or wire and allow them to slide toward the center of the line. The fourth bead is your crossover bead. One end of the thread passes through the hole of the bead from left to right (or top to bottom) and the other end of the thread goes into the bead from right to left (or bottom to top). If you study the thread path, you will see that you are working the heart on its diagonal, making a series of crosses. Then you pick up the top bead of the heart and work the downward diagonal. When you have completed the heart you can tie a knot and run the thread back through the pattern to hide the ends (or if you are using wire, simply run back through the pattern a ways). You can even make the heart using a single thread if you really prefer it.


The firepolish heart shown in my top photo is what you get if you weave the basic 2-dimensional heart. If you use tight tension, the tops of the heart will puff out a bit and the beads will turn toward each other. A looser tension will result in a flat heart. For a 3-dimensional flat heart, make two hearts, lay one on top of the other, and string them together at the edges. For a puffed heart, make two hearts using a relatively tight tension and then lace the two hearts together with edging beads, as shown in this diagram. If you lace two hearts together to make the puffed heart, you will have a single bead at the 'dip' in the top of the heart. It's easy to run a jump ring or make a loop of seeds beads through this bead so that you can make your heart into a pendant or charm.You could hang a single flat heart from its stringing material in the dip, but the connection will be more secure if you run wire or beads through the two 'dip' beads or the two top beads. For a bracelet or anklet, consider joining the heart to a beaded band using the two beads on each side of the heart. So pretty! Make them in crystal and red and pink and white pearls and crystal with contrasting cord... perfect for Valentine's Day or 'just because'.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Beaded Spiral Rope Chain



This easy stitch results in a flexible rope of beads. The spiral rope looks lovely by itself, but it is also easy to embellish either during the beadweaving or after the rope is complete.




Skill Level - suitable for beginners

Time Required - depends on length of chain

Materials

Beads - In this example, I used size 11 Matsunos, but use any size or shape. The inner core beads must have a hole wide enough for 4 thread/needle passes.

Thread - I used size D Nymo, but I think a lightweight Fireline or PowerPro would be stronger and still flexible. I use size B Nymo when I make a rope with size 15 seed beads.

Needle - A size 10 beading needle works for size 11 beads, but you will want a smaller needle if you use smaller beads.

Thread Nippers - As always, I used my trusty flush cutters.

I like to work with a long length of thread so that I can complete the chain without adding new thread. If your thread is fairly thick, it can be tricky adding new lengths while working. On the other hand, if your thread is thin, the resulting rope may be weak. The thread only passes through the beads in the spiral once!

With these considerations in mind, cut a length of thread (mine was about 5 feet or about 1.5 meters), condition it with beeswax or Threadheaven (optional), and thread your needle. String on 4 core beads (gold) and 3 spiral beads (blue). Allow the beads to slide down to within 6-12" of the end. You will use this thread to attach a clasp or to join it to some other work. Pass the needle through the 4 core beads, entering from the tail end (as in photo, tail is 'down', working end is 'up'). Avoid piercing your thread.



Here's what results from the first thread pass. You will have spiral beads (blue) alongside the core beads (gold).



String on 1 core bead and 3 spiral beads. Let them slide down to your work. Pass the needle up through the last 4 core beads (3 old and 1 new), as shown in the photo, from tail end toward the working end. Don't pass through any spiral beads.



Here's what you get. You simply repeat the previous step over and over (and over and over) until your spiral reaches the desired length. The rows of spiral beads will start to line up with each other, as seen in the next pass/photo.



Add 1 core/3 spiral and pass through the last 4 core beads (1 old, 3 new). Feel free to experiment with types of beads and also the number of beads used for the outer spiral (e.g., use 4 spiral beads instead of 3). You can use 2 or 3 colors of spiral beads instead of just one. Also, try using different sizes of beads for the core and spiral. You can intersperse sections of spiral rope with larger beads or other stitches. More advanced beaders may enjoy working fringe or flowers on the spiral or adding embellishment to a completed spiral. I made a simple necklace with the spiral by adding a large bead at one end of the chain and a loop of beads at the other end.



For beginners, here's an explanation of how to add a bead and loop closure, string an 8-mm bead and a seed bead, pass back into the 8-mm bead, run through the work a bit, backtrack through the 8-mm and seed bead, back through the 8-mm, weave back into work. Stitch from the chain through the 8-mm/seed bead as many times as you can to make the connection as strong as possible. Weave back into the work a ways and cut your thread. At the other end, string on seed beads to make a loop that just barely fits around the 8-mm bead. Weave back into the work, back through the loop, back into the work, through the loop, etc., until no more passes are possible or the work is secure. Cut the thread. Enjoy!

Saturday, May 17, 2008

Chinese Dragon - Free Beading Pattern


This pattern for the loom or square stitch makes a 200x150 (30,000) bead panel, which could be used for a purse or a wall hanging. To use the pattern, right-click on the image and save or print the pattern, enlarged (200% or 400%) so that you can see the invidivual pixels (beads). I didn't list bead colors because the beads you use are going to be determined by what you have on hand. You'll want to condense the colors, I'm sure. I recommend using primarily opaque beads for this project. If you bead it, by all means please send me a photo of your finished project. It's my favorite Chinese or Eastern dragon, but I never seem to have a few shades of pink and several of pale aqua needed to complete it. The original dragon was a jpg file someone sent me that I played with in an image processor. If you recognize this dragon (it's changed quite a lot, but still...), please send me information about its origin. I'd very much like to credit the artist. Enjoy!
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Hugs & Kisses Beaded Ring - Free Beading Pattern



This beaded ring is made with two sizes of beads and either wire or stringing material. The design works up more quickly and is more uniform if you use two needles (or wires), but it can be accomplished using single needle right angle weave, if desired. You can vary types and numbers of beads, colors, and embellishments to make many different-looking rings based on the same design.


Skill Level
Suitable for beginners. More experienced jewelry makers may enjoy playing with color and embellishments.

Time Required
Approximately 30 minutes.

Materials
Size 11 Seed Beads: I used Matsuno for the red/gold ring and Delicas for the hematite ring

4-mm Czech Firepolish Beads: Try rounds or other sizes too
Stringing Material: I used 10# PowerPro, but other threads or wire work

Ring Mandrel (Optional): Use to make rings of specific sizes

Wire Cutters or Thread Nippers: Try kiddie Fiskars for PowerPro

Cut about a half meter (1-1/2 feet) of stringing material or wire. It's more than you will need, but it's good to have extra length so you can keep a tight working tension. I recommend #8 or #10 PowerPro, since you can pass it through the ring a second time to reinforce it and because I have never had a ring break yet using it. Unless you are using wire, thread both ends of your needle (I used size 10's with the Power Pro). String an odd number of seed beads and let them fall to the center of the thread. I used 5 Matsunos or 7 Delicas. You can vary this number, but you want it to go at least halfway around your main beads, otherwise thread will show.



Cross your needles or wire through a main bead (4-mm Czech in photo). Pull it tight, with your beads are in the middle of the string.



String 3 Delicas onto each needle. Cross your needles through another small bead and pull the thread tight (total of 7, or whatever number you used in the first step, with half on each side plus a crossing bead).



Are you starting to see a pattern here? Add three small beads to each side and cross through a large bead. Pull tight. You don't need to strong-arm it, especially if you are going to go through the design a second time, but you do want a nice tight weave.

Add three small beads to each side and cross through an additional bead. Add three beads to each side and cross through a big bead. This motif with three larger beads covers the top of my finger, so I tend to start the band of the ring after this point. However, you can make only 1 motif or 5 motifs or do the ring in this design all the way around. Pick the design that suits your taste and comfort.



There are many possibilities for making the band. I have shown a band where you add three small beads to each side, cross through 2 at once, add 3 each side, cross through 2, until you reach the desired length. You could have 3 each side, cross through 1 or 2 each side, cross through 1... whatever you like.



When the ring is long enough (wrap it around your finger or a mandrel to check it), cross the last motif through the middle bead at the end of the ring (where you started!). Be sure to avoid twisting the design. Tie a knot or twist your wire and hide the ends.



I like to weave through the entire ring once more, tying knots every so often. If you weave through a second time, expect the finished ring to tighten/stiffen a bit. Going through the design a second time offers a great opportunity to embellish the design by adding extra beads, particularly over/under the 'crossing' beads. Reinforcing the weave isn't a big deal with smooth beads, but if you try this design with sharp-edge beads (e.g., Swarovski, bugles) you may appreciate the extra security. Clip the ends of the thread or wire and enjoy your new ring!

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